The main differences between oil-based and water-based floor finishes are:

• Drying time:
  Oil-based finishes dry much slower (usually 8–24 hours between coats), while water-based finishes dry very fast (2–4 hours).
• Color:
  Oil-based finishes give the floor a warm, amber tone that deepens over time.
  Water-based finishes stay clear and keep the natural color of the wood.
• Durability:
  Oil-based finishes are very durable and forgiving, especially on older floors.
  Water-based finishes are also durable but can show scratches more easily.
• Smell / VOCs:
  Oil-based finishes have a strong odor and higher VOCs.
  Water-based finishes have low odor and are more environmentally friendly.
• Application:
  Oil-based finishes are easier to apply and level themselves well.
  Water-based finishes require more experience because they dry quickly.
• Maintenance:
  Oil-based finishes are easier to touch up.
  Water-based finishes are harder to repair spot-wise.

How to clean a natural lacquered wood floor:

• Use cleaners specifically made for lacquered / hardwood floors (pH-neutral).
• Clean with a slightly damp mop, never soaking wet.
• Vacuum or sweep first to remove sand and dirt that can scratch the finish.
• Use a soft microfiber mop.

Avoid:

• Excess water ❌
• Steam cleaners ❌
• Strong detergents, ammonia, vinegar, dish soap ❌
• Waxes and oils (on lacquered floors) ❌

Recommended products (USA):

• Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner – Link
• Pallmann Clean – Link
• Loba Cleaner – Link

• Light foot traffic: after 24 hours
• Furniture: after 48–72 hours (use felt pads under legs)
• Rugs / carpets: after 7–14 days
• Full cure of the finish: about 7–30 days (depending on the type of finish)

Important notes:

• Avoid dragging furniture.
• Do not place rugs too early — the floor needs time to breathe.
• Drying time depends on whether the finish is water-based or oil-based.

Yes, red oak can be made to look similar to white oak, but it will never be a perfect match.

• Red oak has pink/red undertones, while white oak has brown/gray undertones.
• Using special stains, neutralizers, or reactive stains, you can reduce the red tone.
• The grain pattern of red oak is different and will still be visible.
• Results depend heavily on wood quality, sanding, and finish used.

In short:
You can get close, but an experienced finisher is needed, and samples are essential before committing.

Yes, there are floor finishes that use a hardener. These are called two-component (2K) finishes, which consist of:
• a base finish,
• a hardener (catalyst).

Characteristics of finishes with a hardener:
• Very high resistance to wear, scratches, and chemicals,
• Faster drying and curing time,
• Greater durability than one-component finishes,
• Commonly used in high-traffic areas.

Types:
• Two-component water-based polyurethane (2K water-based) – very popular today,
• Two-component solvent-based finishes – used less often due to strong odor and high VOCs.

Examples:
• Bona Traffic HD
• Loba 2K Supra
• Pallmann X-Power

The most popular types of wood flooring for installation are:

Solid hardwood
• Made entirely from solid wood,
• Thickness usually 3/4″ (19 mm),
• Installation: nail-down (on joists or plywood),
• Can be sanded and refinished multiple times,
• Very durable and prestigious.

Popular species:
• Red Oak, White Oak, Maple, Hickory

Engineered hardwood
• Several layers of wood (plywood base + top layer of hardwood),
• More stable than solid wood,
• Installation: glue-down, floating, or nail-down,
• Suitable for concrete, radiant heating, and basements.

Popular species:
• White Oak, European Oak, Walnut

Prefinished hardwood
• Finished at the factory
• Faster installation, ready to use immediately
• Durable coating (often UV-cured)

Unfinished hardwood
• Finished on-site
• Full control over stain color and finish
• Ideal for custom projects

Parquet (Herringbone / Chevron)
• Classic and designer patterns
• Usually engineered wood
• Higher installation cost

Most commonly chosen today:
• Engineered White Oak
• Solid Red Oak (unfinished)
• Prefinished engineered hardwood

LVT / LVP (Luxury Vinyl Tile / Plank)
• Wood-like appearance, water- and stain-resistant
• Installation: glue-down or floating
• Very durable, quiet, and soft underfoot
• Ideal for: kitchens, bathrooms, basements
• Cannot be sanded, durability depends on the wear layer

HDF / Laminate
• High-density fiberboard with a wood print and protective laminate
• Installation: floating (click system)
• Scratch- and stain-resistant, but not waterproof
• Lifespan: 10–25 years, cannot be refinished by sanding

Cork
• Natural, soft, and warm underfoot
• Reduces sound and insulates well
• Sensitive to moisture and scratches
• Can be lacquered or oiled

Bamboo / Engineered wood
• Bamboo: hard and eco-friendly
• Engineered wood: glued layers, more stable and cheaper than solid wood
• Installation: glue-down or floating

Wood-look tiles / Ceramic / Porcelain
• Wood appearance, very water- and scratch-resistant
• Installation: glue-down
• Hard and cold underfoot; mats or rugs recommended

Here are the recommendations after freshly sanded and finished hardwood flooring:

Drying and curing time
• Light foot traffic: after 24 hours
• Furniture: after 48–72 hours (use felt pads under legs)
• Rugs / carpets: after 7–14 days
• Full cure of the finish: 7–30 days (depending on finish type, water- or oil-based)

First few days
• Avoid dragging furniture – risk of scratches
• Do not use strong detergents or excessive water
• Ventilate the room to speed up drying and remove odor

Cleaning and maintenance
• Sweep or vacuum regularly to prevent sand and dust from scratching the finish
• Clean with a slightly damp mop and pH-neutral hardwood floor cleaner

Floor protection
• Use felt pads under furniture legs
• Avoid placing heavy objects on freshly finished floors
• Consider runners or rugs in high-traffic areas